The Jōei-ji Sesshū Garden: A World Like an Ink Wash Painting! A Famous Autumn Foliage Spot in Yamaguchi City

Jōei-ji Temple, located in a quiet area about a 6-minute drive northeast of the Yamaguchi Prefectural Office, is a hidden gem for autumn foliage enthusiasts.

The garden on the north side of the temple’s main hall was designed by the renowned ink wash painter Sesshū. Its combination of lush green lawns, a reflective pond, and vivid red autumn leaves creates a breathtaking scene that captivates all who visit.

In 1926, the Sesshū Garden at Jōei-ji Temple was designated a National Historic Site and Place of Scenic Beauty. I visited this stunning spot in mid-November to witness the vibrant autumn colors.

The History of Jōei-ji Temple

Jōei-ji Temple traces its origins back to approximately 500 years ago, during the Muromachi period. It was originally constructed as a villa for Ōuchi Masahiro, a feudal lord of the Ōuchi clan. The villa’s garden was designed by the famous ink wash painter Sesshū Tōyō, blending Zen aesthetics with natural beauty.

Later, the villa was transformed into a temple called Myōkiji. In 1563 (Eiroku 6), a temple originally founded in Yoshida, Aki Province, was relocated to this site, adopting the name Jōei-ji and the celebrated Sesshū Garden.

The temple complex features several buildings, including the main hall, Jizō Hall, Tea Hall, and Kōbō Daishi Hall. However, the highlight of Jōei-ji is undoubtedly the Sesshū Garden, located on the north side of the main hall. This garden is a masterpiece of landscape design, showcasing Sesshū’s vision of harmony between nature and artistry.

Sesshū’s Garden Design at Jōei-ji Temple

Sesshū Tōyō, a Zen monk and celebrated ink wash painter of the Muromachi period, is famously remembered for an incident in his childhood where he drew a mouse with tears, revealing his exceptional talent. This moment marked the beginning of his journey as one of Japan’s greatest artistic figures.

During a two-year stay in Ming China, Sesshū mastered ink wash painting and developed a uniquely Japanese style that earned him acclaim as a cultural giant. His most famous works, such as Amanohashidate-zu (View of Amanohashidate) and Shūtō Sansui-zu (Autumn and Winter Landscapes), have been designated as National Treasures of Japan, embodying his artistic legacy.

Sesshū’s talents extended beyond painting; he also excelled in garden design. Many of his gardens remain in Kyushu and the Chūgoku region, showcasing his ability to bring the principles of Zen and the aesthetics of his art into the natural landscape.

Among these is the Sesshū Garden at Jōei-ji Temple in Yamaguchi City, Yamaguchi Prefecture. This garden is considered one of Sesshū’s “Four Great Gardens,” alongside the gardens of Ikō-ji and Manpuku-ji Temples in Shimane Prefecture and the Old Kameishi-bō Garden in Fukuoka Prefecture. These gardens are celebrated for their harmonious integration of natural and artistic elements, making them masterpieces of Japanese garden design and a lasting testament to Sesshū’s genius.

The garden on the north side of Jōei-ji Temple spans approximately 900 tsubo (around 3,000 square meters) and is surrounded on three sides—east, west, and north—by lush forested mountains. At the heart of this space lies a large pond named Shinji-ike (Heart-shaped Pond), creating the focal point of this chisen-kaiyū-shiki teien (pond-stroll garden).

Although the garden is simple, composed primarily of stones, its design is meticulously calculated. The arrangement of each element allows visitors to experience varying and dynamic views depending on their vantage point. This attention to perspective ensures that every angle offers a unique and picturesque scene, capturing the essence of Zen aesthetics.

The garden exemplifies a harmonious blend of natural elements and artistic precision, providing a tranquil space for reflection and appreciation of Sesshū’s remarkable design vision.

Enjoying the Sesshū Garden from Three Perspectives

While strolling along the pathways that encircle the Sesshū Garden at Jōei-ji Temple, visitors can admire the garden’s ever-changing expressions. However, focusing on these three key viewpoints will deepen your appreciation of its beauty and artistic design.

First Viewpoint: From the Main Hall
From the main hall, take in the entire garden. This perspective highlights the interplay of different elements: the dry landscape garden (kare-sansui), which uses rocks and sand to symbolize mountains and water without the use of actual water; the pond (chisen), and the majestic dry waterfall known as Ryūmon-baku (Dragon Gate Waterfall) on the far right. Together, these elements create a layered, ink wash painting-like composition, offering a three-dimensional representation of Zen aesthetics.

Second Viewpoint: From the Bamboo Grove on the Left
Standing on the pathway near the bamboo grove to the left of the main hall provides a closer view of the pond and the Ryūmon-baku. This angle emphasizes the elegance of the garden’s natural and artistic elements, set against the tranquil backdrop of bamboo.

Third Viewpoint: From the Remains of the Study Hall
To the right of the main hall, the remains of the study hall offer a vantage point that allows visitors to feel the expansive nature of the garden. This view highlights the openness and spaciousness of the design, providing a sense of tranquility and freedom.

These three essential viewpoints are must-see spots when visiting the Sesshū Garden at Jōei-ji Temple. Be sure to explore them all to fully experience the garden’s depth and timeless charm.

Strolling Along the Pathways of the Sesshū Garden

Pass through the main gate of Jōei-ji Temple and pay the admission fee at the reception on your right.

Follow the stone-paved path heading north, and after passing through the Kanesakura Gate, you’ll find the main hall on your left. Visitors can remove their shoes and step inside.

The view of the Sesshū Garden from the main hall – this is the first perspective. The scene, like a framed postcard, is breathtaking.

There is no particular order for strolling along the pathways, allowing visitors to explore freely. On this visit, the author started from the right side, where the remains of the study hall are located, and proceeded counterclockwise.

The pathways include many steps and areas with exposed soil, so it is recommended to wear slip-resistant shoes.

This is the third perspective. The expansive garden gives a somewhat flat and open impression.

As you climb the steps, a large pond comes into view, its surface reflecting the autumn foliage. The scenery gradually takes on a more three-dimensional appearance.

As you continue forward, keeping the dry waterfall (kare-taki) on your left, you’ll come across a sign marking the entrance to Bishamonten. Climbing the steps ahead will lead you to three small halls scattered along the way: the Kōbō Daishi Hall, Yakushi Nyorai Hall, and Bishamonten Hall.

The author made the effort to reach Bishamonten Hall, but the stairs were not well-maintained, making the path challenging to navigate. Both the ascent and descent were quite strenuous.

If you take a left turn at the sign for the Bishamonten Entrance, you will find Shimei-ike, a spawning site for Moria frog (Moriaogaeru).

The Moria frog is a green frog measuring about 40–80 mm in length. While it typically lives in forests, it gathers at ponds and marshes during its breeding season from April to July, where it lays eggs on grass and trees near the water’s surface.

In recent years, their population has declined, and they are classified as a quasi-endangered species in Yamaguchi Prefecture.

Jōei-ji Temple features four ponds: Chisen, Benten-ike, Senryū-ike, and Shimei-ike. Among these, Shimei-ike is a shallow pond without fish, making it a valuable breeding ground for the Moria frog.

On the west side of the garden stands a magnificent maple tree. The contrast between the vibrant red of the autumn leaves and the lush green of the lawn is truly stunning.

From the second perspective on the west side, you can enjoy a clear view of the full dry waterfall (kare-taki) located in the northeast corner. If the lawn and pond of the garden represent “stillness,” then the dry waterfall undoubtedly embodies “movement.” Its rugged and dynamic appearance is captivating.

A stroll along the pathways encircling the garden takes about 10 minutes at a leisurely pace. However, with each step revealing a new and changing view, it feels as though you’ve spent much longer immersed in the garden’s beauty, creating a strangely timeless experience.

A Garden That Connects Generations

Jōei-ji Sesshū Garden also features works by other renowned landscape artists.

On the south side of the main hall lies Nanmei-tei, a dry landscape garden (kare-sansui) created in 1968 (Showa 43) by Mirei Shigemori, a renowned specialist in garden design. It is said that the garden was inspired by the sea that Sesshū crossed during his journey to China.

Mirei Shigemori also designed the garden at Kanyō-ji Temple in Shūnan City’s Kano-kami area. This is another exceptional garden that is well worth visiting if you have the chance.

Furthermore, the front garden Muin, located directly in front of the gate upon entering Jōei-ji Temple, was created in 2012 (Heisei 24).

Jōei-ji Temple offers the unique opportunity to enjoy exquisite gardens from different eras all in one place, spanning the Muromachi period, the Showa era, and the Heisei era. This seamless blend of historical and modern garden artistry is one of the temple’s most distinctive charms.

It creates a fantastic atmosphere at night.

At the Sesshū Garden of Jōei-ji Temple, you can enjoy illuminated autumn foliage and garden views at night. Don’t miss this special opportunity to experience the garden’s enchanting atmosphere under the lights.

Summary

We have introduced the autumn foliage of the Sesshū Garden at Jōei-ji Temple, designed by the renowned ink wash painter Sesshū.

With its expansive lawn, a pond reflecting the sky, dynamic standing stones, and surrounding mountains and bamboo groves, the garden offers a unique and ever-changing impression depending on your viewpoint.

Perhaps the autumn foliage plays only a supporting role in this space, but everything within it harmonizes to create a truly breathtaking scene.

An autumn illumination event is planned for a brief period, allowing visitors to enjoy the magical, otherworldly beauty of the garden at night, offering a completely different experience from daytime. Don’t miss it!